Tree moss in perfumery

When wood and lichen transform to obtain precious scent essences

Take a stroll through the country woods that remain sheltered from city pollution and hectic human life and watch the trees and their layers of lichen, half mushroom half algae, grow quietly to be collected and transformed into winter and spring in an absolute that will become perfume. To produce 1 kg tree moss or oak moss absolute, it is necessary to collect 100 kg of moss, which is to say if the task is difficult! However, the tree moss mixed with solvents and then washed with alcohol will be recovered in this same alcohol to provide the precious substance that delights the noses of perfumers.

The process is simple and the tree moss absolute can actually be made from many types of trees such as ash, cedar, fir and oak The denomination oak moss is not therefore more linked to the botanical breed of its origin, an oak moss in perfumery that can come from any type of tree Although being more precise, let us specify that each type of tree produces mosses with fragrances nuanced.  
Finally, let us specify that the harvest of tree moss is of course linked to the state of our environment because, as we have said, lichen only grows in unpolluted areas. Hopefully this magnificent natural raw material will not come to disappear too in the future

The essential of chypre perfumes: tree moss

Tree moss or oak moss obviously had its first hours of glory with the creation of the famous Cyprus by René Coty. Used as a base note associated with powerful patchouli, tree moss prolongs the pleasure of its long smoky and earthy scents in a juice that will, by the complexity of its association, become the creator of a new olfactory family. : chypres.

If since René Coty and Cyprus, feminine and masculine chypres have widely diversified around different accords (fruity, leather, aromatic, floral or aldehyde), the woody notes of tree moss have remained one of the essential components linked to this olfactory family of character.

However, in the 1990s, tree moss almost disappeared, suspected of being a potentially allergenic substance. Fortunately, the 2000s saw this fabulous mousse grow again in new chypre floral accords such as those of Miss Dior or even in the Mon Paris juice of Yves Saint Laurent. As for the men's range of fragrances based on notes of tree moss, Dior's cult Eau Sauvage remains a classic but also lets other fragrances flourish just as appreciated by these gentlemen, such as 1881 pour Homme. by Cerutti.


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